From Scrubs to Success: The FIGS Story of Disrupting Medical Apparel

Shah Mohammed
9 min readJan 22, 2025

In 2013, Heather Hasson was having coffee with a friend who worked as a nurse practitioner. What caught Hasson’s attention wasn’t their conversation, but rather her friend’s constant adjusting of ill-fitting scrubs. The nurse practitioner explained that despite working in a profession that demanded constant movement and long hours, medical professionals were stuck wearing scratchy, boxy uniforms that hadn’t evolved in nearly a century. This moment of realization would spark a revolution in the medical apparel industry.

Hasson, who had previously founded a high-end handbag company, was struck by the disparity between the critical nature of healthcare work and the poor quality of workwear available to medical professionals. She partnered with Trina Spear, a former Wall Street executive, to dive deeper into understanding the medical apparel market. What they discovered was an industry ripe for disruption.

Traditional medical scrubs were typically purchased from local brick-and-mortar medical supply stores or hospital gift shops. The garments were made from cheap materials, poorly constructed, and designed without consideration for the dynamic nature of medical work. Healthcare professionals, despite being well-paid and fashion-conscious, had no premium options available to them. It was a stark contrast to other professional industries where workwear had evolved to meet modern demands.

The co-founders spent months shadowing medical professionals across different specialties, observing their movements, listening to their frustrations, and understanding their needs. They discovered that healthcare workers needed scrubs that could withstand the rigors of 12-hour shifts, provide adequate storage for medical tools, and maintain a professional appearance while being comfortable enough for constant movement.

FIGS’ initial innovation came through fabric technology. Rather than using traditional cotton blends, they developed their proprietary FIONx fabric technology — a antimicrobial, liquid-repelling, four-way stretch fabric that would maintain its shape and color through countless washes. This technical fabric wasn’t just about comfort; it was about creating a safer, more hygienic environment for healthcare workers and their patients.

The company’s name, FIGS, was chosen with purpose. Historically, fig leaves were used for protection and coverage, and figs themselves were known for their healing properties. This connection to both protection and healing resonated with the brand’s mission to serve medical professionals.

Breaking into the market wasn’t easy. The medical apparel industry was dominated by a few large players who had maintained their positions through established relationships with medical supply stores. FIGS took an unconventional approach — they decided to sell directly to consumers through an online platform, bypassing traditional retail channels entirely. This direct-to-consumer (DTC) model was virtually unheard of in the medical apparel industry at the time.

Disrupting Distribution and Building a Digital-First Brand

FIGS’ decision to pursue a direct-to-consumer model wasn’t just about circumventing traditional retail channels; it represented a fundamental shift in how medical apparel could be marketed and sold. The medical supply store model had created a transactional, convenience-based purchasing experience devoid of any emotional connection or brand loyalty. FIGS saw an opportunity to transform this experience entirely.

The company’s digital-first approach allowed them to do something unprecedented in the medical apparel industry: create a genuine connection with their customers. They built a sophisticated e-commerce platform that offered detailed product information, size guides, and high-quality imagery showing their scrubs in action. This was a stark contrast to the fluorescent-lit, cluttered environments of medical supply stores where healthcare professionals typically bought their workwear.

Understanding that healthcare professionals were increasingly mobile-first consumers, FIGS invested heavily in their mobile shopping experience. They introduced features like easy reordering, personalized recommendations, and seamless checkout processes that acknowledged the time constraints of their target audience. The convenience of having premium scrubs delivered directly to their door resonated strongly with healthcare workers working long, irregular hours.

FIGS’ marketing strategy was equally innovative. Rather than relying on traditional medical supply catalogs or trade show presentations, they leveraged social media to build a community. They began featuring real healthcare professionals in their marketing materials, telling their stories and highlighting their achievements. This approach humanized the brand and created authentic connections with their audience.

Instagram became a particularly powerful platform for FIGS. They created the hashtag #wearfigs, encouraging healthcare workers to share photos of themselves in their scrubs. This user-generated content strategy not only provided social proof but also helped create a sense of community among medical professionals. The photos showed FIGS scrubs in real working environments, from emergency rooms to dental offices, demonstrating their versatility and functionality.

The company also revolutionized the way medical apparel was photographed and presented. Instead of clinical, catalog-style images, FIGS produced editorial-quality photography that showcased their scrubs as both functional workwear and stylish attire. They treated their scrubs like premium athletic wear, highlighting technical features while maintaining a fashion-forward aesthetic.

Their approach to product releases borrowed more from streetwear brands than traditional medical apparel companies. FIGS introduced limited edition colors and styles, creating anticipation and urgency around new launches. This strategy not only drove sales but also encouraged healthcare professionals to build a collection of FIGS scrubs for different days and settings.

The direct-to-consumer model provided another crucial advantage: data. FIGS could track purchasing patterns, gather feedback, and quickly iterate on their designs based on customer input. This real-time feedback loop allowed them to continuously improve their products and introduce new styles that directly addressed customer needs and preferences.

Elevating Medical Apparel through Innovation and Premium Positioning

FIGS transformed medical apparel from a commodity into a premium product category through meticulous attention to design, functionality, and quality. Unlike traditional scrub manufacturers who competed primarily on price, FIGS positioned their products as performance workwear worthy of the medical professionals who wore them.

The company’s approach to product development more closely resembled that of high-end athletic wear brands than traditional medical apparel makers. Each garment was engineered with specific features designed to enhance performance during long shifts. The pockets were strategically placed and reinforced to hold medical instruments. Seams were positioned to prevent chafing during constant movement. Even the wrinkle-resistant properties were developed with the understanding that healthcare professionals needed to maintain a professional appearance throughout grueling shifts.

FIGS introduced previously unheard-of features to medical apparel. They added yoga waistbands for comfort, implemented antimicrobial technology that could withstand industrial washing, and developed tailored fits that looked professional while allowing freedom of movement. The company even considered details like badge loops and instrument holders, showing their deep understanding of healthcare workers’ daily needs.

Color became another area of innovation. While traditional scrubs were available in basic colors, FIGS expanded the palette significantly, offering seasonal collections and limited-edition shades. This wasn’t just about aesthetics; it was about giving healthcare professionals the ability to express their personality while maintaining professional standards. Different colors also helped distinguish between departments or roles in medical settings, adding functional value to the style choices.

The company’s commitment to quality extended to their sizing approach. Recognizing that medical professionals came in all shapes and sizes, FIGS developed an extensive size range and offered styles specifically designed for both men and women. This was a significant departure from the unisex, one-size-fits-most approach that had dominated the industry.

FIGS also recognized that different medical specialties had different needs. They created specialized collections for dental professionals, veterinarians, and other healthcare segments, each with unique features suited to their specific work environments. This attention to specialized needs helped cement FIGS’ reputation as a brand that truly understood its customers.

Perhaps most importantly, FIGS elevated the perception of medical apparel by treating it with the same respect as other professional wear. They understood that scrubs were more than just a uniform; they were a symbol of the medical profession and should be designed and marketed accordingly. This mindset shift resonated deeply with healthcare professionals who had long been underserved by the traditional medical apparel industry.

Scaling Growth and Going Public

By 2020, just seven years after its founding, FIGS had achieved remarkable success, but the path to scaling their business required careful navigation of numerous challenges.

The company’s growth strategy centered on three key pillars: expanding their customer base, increasing purchase frequency, and extending their product range. Rather than rushing to capture market share through aggressive discounting or rapid expansion, FIGS focused on building sustainable growth through strong unit economics and customer loyalty.

Word-of-mouth became one of FIGS’ most powerful growth engines. The company understood that healthcare professionals worked in close-knit communities where recommendations carried significant weight. They leveraged this by introducing a referral program that rewarded existing customers for bringing new healthcare professionals to the brand. This organic growth strategy proved particularly effective in hospital settings, where entire departments would often switch to FIGS after seeing colleagues wearing them.

The COVID-19 pandemic marked a pivotal moment in FIGS’ growth trajectory. As healthcare workers became front-line heroes, the importance of proper medical attire took on new significance. FIGS responded by donating scrubs to healthcare workers and implementing safety measures in their supply chain. This period also accelerated the shift to online shopping, playing directly into FIGS’ digital-first model.

In May 2021, FIGS achieved a major milestone by becoming the first direct-to-consumer healthcare apparel company to go public. The IPO was groundbreaking not just for its success — the company was valued at over $4.5 billion — but also for its format. FIGS reserved stock for healthcare professionals to purchase at the IPO price through Robinhood’s platform, a move that aligned with their mission of serving the healthcare community.

The company’s growth strategy extended beyond North America. FIGS began a calculated international expansion, recognizing that healthcare professionals worldwide faced similar challenges with traditional medical apparel. However, they maintained their direct-to-consumer model and high-touch customer service approach, ensuring that their brand standards remained consistent across markets.

As they scaled, FIGS maintained their commitment to innovation. They invested heavily in their technology platform, using data analytics to predict demand, optimize inventory, and personalize the shopping experience. This tech-forward approach helped them maintain efficiency while growing rapidly, avoiding the operational pitfalls that often plague fast-growing companies.

Sustaining Innovation and Future Horizons

As FIGS continues to evolve, the company faces both exciting opportunities and significant challenges in maintaining its position as the leader in premium medical apparel. Their success has not gone unnoticed, with traditional medical apparel companies and new startups attempting to replicate elements of their model. However, FIGS continues to innovate and expand their vision of what medical apparel can be.

The company has begun to explore the intersection of technology and medical apparel more deeply. They’re investigating smart fabrics that could monitor vital signs or alert wearers to potential contamination. While still in development, these innovations could transform medical scrubs from passive garments into active tools for healthcare professionals. This focus on technological innovation helps maintain their competitive edge and creates barriers to entry for potential competitors.

Community building has become increasingly central to FIGS’ strategy. The company launched FIGS Corps, a program that goes beyond selling apparel to support healthcare professionals in their careers. This initiative includes mentorship programs, continuing education support, and networking opportunities. By positioning themselves as more than just an apparel company, FIGS is working to become an indispensable part of healthcare professionals’ lives.

Sustainability has emerged as another key focus area. FIGS is investing in sustainable materials and manufacturing processes, recognizing that healthcare professionals are increasingly conscious of environmental impact. They’ve begun developing scrubs made from recycled materials and implementing more environmentally friendly packaging solutions. This commitment to sustainability aligns with their target market’s values while also addressing growing environmental concerns in the medical industry.

The company has also started expanding beyond scrubs into other categories of medical wear and lifestyle products. This includes lab coats, underscrubs, compression socks, and even lifestyle wear designed for healthcare professionals’ off-duty hours. However, they’re careful to maintain their focus on the medical community, ensuring that each new product serves a specific need rather than simply expanding for growth’s sake.

International expansion presents both opportunities and challenges. While the global market for medical apparel is substantial, each region has unique regulatory requirements, sizing standards, and cultural preferences. FIGS is taking a measured approach to international growth, ensuring they can maintain their high standards for product quality and customer service in each new market they enter.

Perhaps most significantly, FIGS is working to address the evolving needs of the healthcare profession itself. As healthcare delivery models change and new medical specialties emerge, the company is positioning itself to adapt quickly to new requirements. They maintain close relationships with medical professionals through advisory boards and continuous feedback loops, ensuring they stay ahead of industry changes.

The FIGS story demonstrates how a deep understanding of an underserved market, combined with innovative thinking and unwavering commitment to quality, can revolutionize an entire industry. Their success goes beyond creating better products; they’ve built a brand that represents the pride and professionalism of healthcare workers. As they continue to grow and evolve, their biggest challenge will be maintaining the innovative spirit and customer focus that made them successful while operating at a much larger scale.

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